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Slide the finished puzzle onto a surface it cannot stick to (baking paper or a plastic sheet), then apply a PVA-based puzzle glue to the front in two or three thin coats, spreading each one edge to edge with a plastic card or the applicator. Let each coat dry for two to four hours, and dry the whole thing flat, never propped up. One thick coat is the mistake that warps puzzles.
Gluing is how a finished puzzle stops being a temporary thing on a dining table and becomes something you can hang up or give away. It is easy to do well and easy to ruin, and the difference is almost entirely about how thick you lay the glue on.
The two mistakes that ruin puzzles. One thick coat instead of two thin ones, which soaks the board and warps it into a shallow bowl as it dries. And drying it on any surface that glue can bond to. Both are unrecoverable. Neither is hard to avoid.
Once it is fully cured, a glued puzzle behaves like a single sheet of thick card. You have three options, in ascending order of cost.
Check the finished dimensions on the puzzle box before you buy. Most standard 1000 piece puzzles are close to a common poster size, but "close" is not "the same", so measure the actual puzzle.
Glue the cured puzzle to a foam board slightly smaller than the puzzle and hang it with adhesive strips. Clean, modern, and no glass reflections.
Worth it for a large or sentimental puzzle. Ask for a spacer so the glass does not sit directly on the puzzle surface, and for UV glass if it will hang anywhere with daylight.
Do not glue a puzzle you might want to build again, and do not glue a puzzle you intend to pass on to another puzzler. A rebuilt puzzle is worth more to most people than a glued one, and a good puzzle can circulate through a family for years.
If the reason you are gluing is simply that you need the dining table back, glue is the wrong tool. A puzzle mat rolls a part-finished puzzle up and keeps it intact, and a puzzle board lets you slide the whole thing under a bed between sittings. Both preserve the option to take it apart.
On mats and boards, being straight with you: we do not stock them yet. It is the most common question we get that we cannot currently answer with a product, and sorting it out is on the list. Any art supply shop or larger newsagent will have a PVA-based puzzle conserver, and the method above works with all of them.
You can, and plenty of people do. Dilute white PVA slightly with water and apply it very thinly. The trade-off is that ordinary PVA can dry with a visible sheen or a slight yellow cast over years, where purpose-made puzzle glue is formulated to dry clear and stay clear. For a puzzle you intend to hang on a wall, buy the proper stuff.
The front, in almost every case. Gluing the front seals the pieces to each other and protects the printed surface. Gluing the back only works if you can flip the puzzle intact, which usually means sandwiching it between boards, and it leaves the front unprotected.
Two to four hours between coats, and 24 hours before you move, hang or frame it. It will feel dry to the touch much sooner than it is actually cured, and moving it early is how you get lifting at the edges.
Slightly, yes. Most puzzle glues dry to a light satin sheen, which lifts colours a little but does change a matte puzzle's character. If you want no sheen at all, use peel-and-stick adhesive sheets applied to the back instead of liquid glue.
No. Gluing is permanent. If there is any chance you will want to rebuild it or pass it on, use a puzzle mat or a board to store it instead.
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